tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7785879173054890742024-03-13T06:23:24.854-07:00Ruth's JACKET ProjectHand weaving a jacket all in one piece in even weave on a home made loom.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger67125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-54917986086485848942014-11-14T06:18:00.000-08:002014-11-14T06:18:21.128-08:00Finished!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQ8MDywARU0/VGYMMQjQjUI/AAAAAAAAA20/Wdnmii3HKrc/s1600/details%2Bof%2Bfinished%2Bjacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQ8MDywARU0/VGYMMQjQjUI/AAAAAAAAA20/Wdnmii3HKrc/s1600/details%2Bof%2Bfinished%2Bjacket.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sewing in the zip and constructing the lining were the finishing touches. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I can start to wear it, just in time for the colder weather.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cp1ig259dL4/VGYOrEr8lQI/AAAAAAAAA3E/gv-B7s3Lvho/s1600/finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cp1ig259dL4/VGYOrEr8lQI/AAAAAAAAA3E/gv-B7s3Lvho/s1600/finished.jpg" height="360" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-45015437391343236912014-11-12T07:26:00.001-08:002014-11-12T07:26:58.388-08:00Weaving the collar and edgings<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QLF3VvGH29w/VGN5OlmeP5I/AAAAAAAAA1A/tqGE35P348s/s1600/collar-warping1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QLF3VvGH29w/VGN5OlmeP5I/AAAAAAAAA1A/tqGE35P348s/s320/collar-warping1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I held the warp in place on the collar base with hair grips while I stitched it in place. </span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0d0MQHQr5WQ/VGN5PRxXoSI/AAAAAAAAA1M/CoVklRvTzBg/s1600/collar-warping2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0d0MQHQr5WQ/VGN5PRxXoSI/AAAAAAAAA1M/CoVklRvTzBg/s320/collar-warping2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J6wf_YEGXos/VGN5MuplDrI/AAAAAAAAA0o/gfB0b4niz84/s1600/collar-fastening-to-neck-edge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J6wf_YEGXos/VGN5MuplDrI/AAAAAAAAA0o/gfB0b4niz84/s320/collar-fastening-to-neck-edge.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When most of the warp was in place, I attached the collar to the neck edge.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L4vIYlDVs1E/VGN5M9rhHDI/AAAAAAAAA0w/k2_YM_oIMok/s1600/beginning-to-warp-edges.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L4vIYlDVs1E/VGN5M9rhHDI/AAAAAAAAA0w/k2_YM_oIMok/s320/beginning-to-warp-edges.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally I attached the edge strands. These ones continue down the front and around the hem.</span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5NcWcAwjVYM/VGN7iTuTaOI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/eKS3mO3ZJss/s1600/edges-warped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5NcWcAwjVYM/VGN7iTuTaOI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/eKS3mO3ZJss/s320/edges-warped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vztgh1EmMU8/VGN5QPRVb1I/AAAAAAAAA1U/8yKNDyp3YIw/s1600/fastening-down-the-edges-warp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vztgh1EmMU8/VGN5QPRVb1I/AAAAAAAAA1U/8yKNDyp3YIw/s320/fastening-down-the-edges-warp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--BrVR3yNN2Q/VGN5PpjOADI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/aOOTppffco0/s1600/collar-weaving-the-shaping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--BrVR3yNN2Q/VGN5PpjOADI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/aOOTppffco0/s320/collar-weaving-the-shaping.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wove the collar first. What fun to get the brown wool out and see the collar take shape!</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1KvJLU8UrEs/VGN5RirQpxI/AAAAAAAAA1o/lglpreYPB8Y/s1600/weaving-the-bottom-corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1KvJLU8UrEs/VGN5RirQpxI/AAAAAAAAA1o/lglpreYPB8Y/s320/weaving-the-bottom-corner.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then it was time to weave the edgings.</span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s-XpAoLcjN0/VGN5NbaAsBI/AAAAAAAAA2E/UrBnP1ANjN0/s1600/collar-problem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s-XpAoLcjN0/VGN5NbaAsBI/AAAAAAAAA2E/UrBnP1ANjN0/s320/collar-problem.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once the weaving was done, I undid all the holding stitches. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I could see that the edge of the collar got stretched out of shape while weaving.</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBloTMtlDOA/VGN5Nti7e9I/AAAAAAAAA00/4sAsawKHIe4/s1600/collar-solution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mBloTMtlDOA/VGN5Nti7e9I/AAAAAAAAA00/4sAsawKHIe4/s320/collar-solution.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I pulled it to the right shape with gathering thread. Then I worked from the back and pulled out loops of the warp threads until the collar lay where it should. Then I cut the loops and buried the ends.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oww5eGUaUuw/VGN5QtArIcI/AAAAAAAAA1k/J15AbjcU1e8/s1600/pressed-with-zip-pinned-in-place.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oww5eGUaUuw/VGN5QtArIcI/AAAAAAAAA1k/J15AbjcU1e8/s320/pressed-with-zip-pinned-in-place.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once the collar was fixed, I pressed all the edges and began to experiment with the placement of the zip.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-56685949329334176182014-10-27T20:11:00.000-07:002014-10-27T20:11:40.395-07:00Finishing touches - harder parts well on the way<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mDa-zTO0eT4/VE8G-iYw7PI/AAAAAAAAA0M/axf2rekc58k/s1600/cuff-and-pocket-finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mDa-zTO0eT4/VE8G-iYw7PI/AAAAAAAAA0M/axf2rekc58k/s1600/cuff-and-pocket-finished.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The cuffs and pocket edges look lovely and hold their shape well.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--41DshGmOqI/VE8G99rmFDI/AAAAAAAAAz4/XEfuknFJcqQ/s1600/collar-tracing-paper-pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--41DshGmOqI/VE8G99rmFDI/AAAAAAAAAz4/XEfuknFJcqQ/s1600/collar-tracing-paper-pattern.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I spent a whole day making the tracing paper pattern for the collar to create a neat tapered shape that lies flat across the shoulders and has a smooth transition to the front edging bands. It has three sections: one to fill in the neck edge, a collar stand, and the collar itself. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7RlbuUw0Fh8/VE8G9qUYMHI/AAAAAAAAAzw/Eopx312MeZ4/s1600/collar-interfacing-on-backing-fabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7RlbuUw0Fh8/VE8G9qUYMHI/AAAAAAAAAzw/Eopx312MeZ4/s1600/collar-interfacing-on-backing-fabric.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I cut it out precisely in fusible interfacing and adhered it to the backing fabric. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W0_BsD1iXLM/VE8G9xdVA9I/AAAAAAAAAz0/5-or3RUVnVk/s1600/collar-warp-drawing-on-3-D-base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W0_BsD1iXLM/VE8G9xdVA9I/AAAAAAAAAz0/5-or3RUVnVk/s1600/collar-warp-drawing-on-3-D-base.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I drew on as many warp lines as I could figure out while the pieces were flat, then I assembled it into its final 3-D shape and drew on the rest of the lines where they cross seams.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mvUx5nBNBmY/VE8G_eENBrI/AAAAAAAAA0E/TXKhfxqkIkw/s1600/front-edging-%26-hem-corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mvUx5nBNBmY/VE8G_eENBrI/AAAAAAAAA0E/TXKhfxqkIkw/s1600/front-edging-%26-hem-corner.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The edgings for the hem and front opening are straightforward, using the same method as for the cuffs and pockets. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The front corners turn nicely where the softness of the material allows me to create an inside curve with a half inch radius. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I tacked the edgings base to the garment.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6VKG3c8HZQw/VE8G--sNxWI/AAAAAAAAAz8/NQfKMHEfiYw/s1600/edging-and-collar-base-attached.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6VKG3c8HZQw/VE8G--sNxWI/AAAAAAAAAz8/NQfKMHEfiYw/s1600/edging-and-collar-base-attached.jpg" height="320" width="268" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I temporarily pinned on the collar base to check the fit. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'll take it off to attach most of the warp threads, then tack it onto the jacket. </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-58517039072323972212014-10-24T05:16:00.001-07:002014-10-24T05:16:04.867-07:00Finishing touches - easy things first<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm experimenting as I go along for</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> the next steps, starting with the simpler things</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(edging on cuffs and pocket openings) in the hopes that I will learn what I need to know to do the harder things (the collar and front and hem edgings which need to be done as a unit).</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2aOrZJn6wgI/VEpB2cQbJGI/AAAAAAAAAy4/4y3N_8s4ljc/s1600/pocket-edging-base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2aOrZJn6wgI/VEpB2cQbJGI/AAAAAAAAAy4/4y3N_8s4ljc/s1600/pocket-edging-base.jpg" height="220" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To make a base to hold the warp for the tapestry sections I used a needle lace method: the actual-size drawing on paper of the pocket opening was reinforced with a backing of fabric and a covering of clear plastic. On the drawing </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I marked each of the seven warps. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">T</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">he base extended far enough under the fabric edge that it could be tacked in place with holding stitches. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVGd39cBriI/VEpB3-RyVvI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/PzYQvpKpFOo/s1600/pocket-edging-warping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVGd39cBriI/VEpB3-RyVvI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/PzYQvpKpFOo/s1600/pocket-edging-warping.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I held the warps temporarily in place with bobby pins/hair grips. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T4LX4T-3Ulo/VEpB3C4JhNI/AAAAAAAAAzE/7FVIso-YcN0/s1600/pocket-edging-holding-stitiches.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T4LX4T-3Ulo/VEpB3C4JhNI/AAAAAAAAAzE/7FVIso-YcN0/s1600/pocket-edging-holding-stitiches.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I secured all the warp threads in position with holding stitches. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1RatGKMtj0Q/VEpB3brABHI/AAAAAAAAAzI/C0v0-f_LCgs/s1600/pocket-edging-starting-to-weave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1RatGKMtj0Q/VEpB3brABHI/AAAAAAAAAzI/C0v0-f_LCgs/s1600/pocket-edging-starting-to-weave.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wove over pairs of warps to make a weft-faced padded band. The fabric edge and the first strand became the first "pair" of warps.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WotQ3vEx614/VEpB2sTvB_I/AAAAAAAAAy8/IV6EteCfgOs/s1600/pocket-edging-continuing-to-weave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WotQ3vEx614/VEpB2sTvB_I/AAAAAAAAAy8/IV6EteCfgOs/s1600/pocket-edging-continuing-to-weave.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uHBa8VVWXNI/VEpB2dSyfeI/AAAAAAAAAzg/Jx7StboGzpk/s1600/pocket-edging-complete.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uHBa8VVWXNI/VEpB2dSyfeI/AAAAAAAAAzg/Jx7StboGzpk/s1600/pocket-edging-complete.jpg" height="400" width="346" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After weaving, I removed all the holding stitches.</span><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-85124105194795502282014-10-23T14:51:00.002-07:002014-10-23T14:51:14.869-07:00It worked!<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELv_CBKM50o/VEl3G1yHKLI/AAAAAAAAAyo/YgJLuo0o64Q/s1600/ruth-wearing-the-fulled-jacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ELv_CBKM50o/VEl3G1yHKLI/AAAAAAAAAyo/YgJLuo0o64Q/s1600/ruth-wearing-the-fulled-jacket.jpg" height="400" width="231" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The big unknown in this project was whether the completed weaving with all its shaping would act the way my simple samples did and shrink the expected 20% in width and 25% in length. It took two times in the washing machine on an "easy care" setting at 30 degrees and with a 800 rpm spin cycle and one more rinse cycle before the jacket shrank to my expected final size. I measured each time and compared to the original sewing pattern measurements to determine when it was completely fulled. Next I pressed it on a low setting under a press cloth while it was still damp and hung it on the dressmaker's dummy to finish drying overnight. The fabric feels springy and comfortable and no longer looks like sacking. The edges are firm and even and the ends protruding from the inside surface are well felted and secure. It feels great to wear even without all the finishing touches I have planned. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In all the excitement I forgot to </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">photograph the jacket before I </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">began doing things to it. You can </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">see where I have begun to work on the pocket and cuff.</span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-66684194349158548652014-10-21T12:40:00.000-07:002014-10-21T12:40:03.236-07:00Preparing for fulling<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once the jacket was completely released from the weaving form, I measured again. As I expected, there was very little change in the width because I wove carefully to allow for take-up in the weft, but there was quite a bit of difference in the length because the warps had been stretched taut. They bounced back approximately 5% when released. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next I prepared the jacket for fulling.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ENDS: I pulled all the darned-in ends to the back and trimmed them to about an inch long. These will remain inside the jacket as little felted anchors to keep the ends from working out to the front of the fabric.</span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaSLjt3eNxY/VEapeln0F_I/AAAAAAAAAyE/UAYqqHfyPEM/s1600/whip-stitching-curves-before-after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaSLjt3eNxY/VEapeln0F_I/AAAAAAAAAyE/UAYqqHfyPEM/s1600/whip-stitching-curves-before-after.jpg" height="209" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">curved neck edge before and after whip stitching</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">CURVES: </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I whip-stitched along the pocket openings and neck edge to help stabilize the curves.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cwq9U6aGmoQ/VEalANr9K1I/AAAAAAAAAxE/O8z9ZCyJtXo/s1600/herringbone-stitching-pockets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cwq9U6aGmoQ/VEalANr9K1I/AAAAAAAAAxE/O8z9ZCyJtXo/s1600/herringbone-stitching-pockets.jpg" height="232" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">POCKETS: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I herringbone-stitched the two layers of the pocket together along the tops and sides. I left the edges that meet the jacket front and hem loose because these will be combined into the edging which will be woven on after fulling. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xRQmyp_xQzk/VEalAKvEX0I/AAAAAAAAAxQ/hN1GIFsfWuQ/s1600/pocket-layers-separated.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xRQmyp_xQzk/VEalAKvEX0I/AAAAAAAAAxQ/hN1GIFsfWuQ/s1600/pocket-layers-separated.jpg" height="221" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I lightly tacked a layer of plastic between the two layers of the pockets. That way the fabric can shrink but there will be no danger of the pocket felting shut.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRXdH4G0cTk/VEalARpFdlI/AAAAAAAAAxI/Vt31FWcrgcU/s1600/removing-the-sleeve-hem-stitiching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRXdH4G0cTk/VEalARpFdlI/AAAAAAAAAxI/Vt31FWcrgcU/s1600/removing-the-sleeve-hem-stitiching.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SLEEVE JOIN: </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I removed the hemstitching and bias strip that had stabilized the edge of the sleeve opening. Then I pulled up a few threads to even out the weaving. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDcVXhUxpSk/VEanu7bevdI/AAAAAAAAAx4/IXOXgCuy5aE/s1600/shoulder-warps-darned-in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PDcVXhUxpSk/VEanu7bevdI/AAAAAAAAAx4/IXOXgCuy5aE/s1600/shoulder-warps-darned-in.jpg" height="320" width="318" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The extra warp threads which stopped at the shoulder to provide ease were darned in on the inside of the jacket shoulder. The shoulder easing looks quite effective and the darned-in ends provide a bit of firmness on the shoulder line.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mMoLZZj7Urw/VEalCDOP1SI/AAAAAAAAAxk/aK_rX8zi9WQ/s1600/sleeve-join-problem-before-after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mMoLZZj7Urw/VEalCDOP1SI/AAAAAAAAAxk/aK_rX8zi9WQ/s1600/sleeve-join-problem-before-after.jpg" height="250" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">sleeve join before and after stitching</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was disappointed to see that a section of the join at the front and back of each sleeve had big uneven holes. The problem was that the curve at this section of the sleeve was really steep, so there weren't very many warp threads to incorporate into the jacket body. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If I had foreseen this, I would have left some weft threads hanging out to use in between these, but instead I turned all the weft threads back into the sleeve, expecting that the warp threads would be enough to form the join. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I experimented with extracting some weft threads from the sleeve and weaving them across the gaps, but this was fraught with difficulty and impractical at this late stage of the project, so in the end I used some stitching to fill in the gaps.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-prezysEwjvw/VEa18GKCPhI/AAAAAAAAAyU/EUxGQbewAuM/s1600/ready-for-fulling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-prezysEwjvw/VEa18GKCPhI/AAAAAAAAAyU/EUxGQbewAuM/s1600/ready-for-fulling.jpg" height="640" width="544" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now the jacket is ready for fulling!</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-46577466130130894132014-10-21T05:20:00.000-07:002014-10-21T05:20:02.049-07:00Preparing for "take off"<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZXhUo_Jj5FQ/VEZO7KE3OGI/AAAAAAAAAw0/eFBrAmTNZ5g/s1600/jacket-front-finished-weaving.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZXhUo_Jj5FQ/VEZO7KE3OGI/AAAAAAAAAw0/eFBrAmTNZ5g/s1600/jacket-front-finished-weaving.jpg" height="320" width="272" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While the jacket was still on the weaving form, I measured it in various dimensions. to compare with after "take off" and after fulling.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JW7KgAZPk4/VEZEPv8_TgI/AAAAAAAAAwk/ORjFadz8QYE/s1600/darning-in-shaping-wedges-threads-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5JW7KgAZPk4/VEZEPv8_TgI/AAAAAAAAAwk/ORjFadz8QYE/s1600/darning-in-shaping-wedges-threads-1.jpg" height="195" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Also, I took the opportunity while it was still held taut, to do some darning in. There were warps tied off at pins to create shaping in various places. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P9NWk2OYBfg/VEZEJDhhLiI/AAAAAAAAAwY/tL--xpZoIqs/s1600/darning-in-shaping-wedges-threads-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P9NWk2OYBfg/VEZEJDhhLiI/AAAAAAAAAwY/tL--xpZoIqs/s1600/darning-in-shaping-wedges-threads-2.jpg" height="166" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I untied them and darned one end downward and one end upward.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f-12dOYO0mc/VEZEKbueSLI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/6A78OI3tVKA/s1600/unpicking-the-holding-stitches-at-hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f-12dOYO0mc/VEZEKbueSLI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/6A78OI3tVKA/s1600/unpicking-the-holding-stitches-at-hem.jpg" height="155" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then as I gradually unpicked the holding stitches around the hem...</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ScFeuuWy9Ww/VEZEJMKzTfI/AAAAAAAAAv4/npTorgdaxTw/s1600/drawing-up-the-excess.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ScFeuuWy9Ww/VEZEJMKzTfI/AAAAAAAAAv4/npTorgdaxTw/s1600/drawing-up-the-excess.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I darned in warps and drew up slack where needed.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aHzUIT_hLlQ/VEZEIx9Wj4I/AAAAAAAAAv0/6DghFVNFO-I/s1600/after-drawing-up-the-excess.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aHzUIT_hLlQ/VEZEIx9Wj4I/AAAAAAAAAv0/6DghFVNFO-I/s1600/after-drawing-up-the-excess.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then the edge was even.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d6A7FDZbe5I/VEZEJzsxnmI/AAAAAAAAAwE/76AckXJemIU/s1600/underpocket-pins-revealed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d6A7FDZbe5I/VEZEJzsxnmI/AAAAAAAAAwE/76AckXJemIU/s1600/underpocket-pins-revealed.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the hem free, I could turn back the overpockets to reveal the underpockets... </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rwm2St73YMI/VEZEJvBhqrI/AAAAAAAAAwA/Dfc1ZDad4fQ/s1600/underpocket-pins-removed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rwm2St73YMI/VEZEJvBhqrI/AAAAAAAAAwA/Dfc1ZDad4fQ/s1600/underpocket-pins-removed.jpg" height="177" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">and I took out the pins holding them in place.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-16969025109131569572014-10-19T20:56:00.002-07:002014-10-19T20:56:27.256-07:00Finished the main weaving<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Repeating the process I used on the back, I wove the fronts up to the top of the shoulder until all the sleeve warps were woven into the jacket body. All that was left were two triangles at the top of each shoulder which met across the back.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hMQJXhWvSY8/VER_GPbz5PI/AAAAAAAAAu0/DwwlPu9Jv8A/s1600/finished-front-yokes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hMQJXhWvSY8/VER_GPbz5PI/AAAAAAAAAu0/DwwlPu9Jv8A/s1600/finished-front-yokes.jpg" height="165" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E4EMc7fXY6Q/VESGLComZKI/AAAAAAAAAvk/xha-55VoXSI/s1600/shoulders-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E4EMc7fXY6Q/VESGLComZKI/AAAAAAAAAvk/xha-55VoXSI/s1600/shoulders-back.jpg" height="147" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iHlJ6FyQqh4/VER_KFByVxI/AAAAAAAAAu8/9IHjWuwe3dg/s1600/shoulder-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iHlJ6FyQqh4/VER_KFByVxI/AAAAAAAAAu8/9IHjWuwe3dg/s1600/shoulder-1.jpg" height="204" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I started from the front neck edge. I turned at the shoulder to cross the back to the other shoulder where I turned to meet the other front neck edge. I repeated this until I filled up to the back neck. Then I finished each shoulder triangle separately.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WkrTN7gYV2g/VER_KEWd6tI/AAAAAAAAAvU/x4IGyONvwAY/s1600/shoulder-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WkrTN7gYV2g/VER_KEWd6tI/AAAAAAAAAvU/x4IGyONvwAY/s1600/shoulder-2.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q-hKHMvRBJI/VER_KIe6htI/AAAAAAAAAvA/nBGWgkWq9IE/s1600/shoulder-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q-hKHMvRBJI/VER_KIe6htI/AAAAAAAAAvA/nBGWgkWq9IE/s1600/shoulder-3.jpg" height="217" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzAxPSGFk_Y/VER_KjDVg9I/AAAAAAAAAvE/wLME2DL0se8/s1600/shoulder-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzAxPSGFk_Y/VER_KjDVg9I/AAAAAAAAAvE/wLME2DL0se8/s1600/shoulder-4.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a></span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-40105663928613452652014-10-09T20:07:00.002-07:002014-10-09T20:07:36.387-07:00Finished the back<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KdFctxjEW9s/VDdJeZGymsI/AAAAAAAAAug/pgvTZfx1Dm8/s1600/back-finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KdFctxjEW9s/VDdJeZGymsI/AAAAAAAAAug/pgvTZfx1Dm8/s1600/back-finished.jpg" height="320" width="275" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The warps extending from the back of the sleeves have now been incorporated into the back of the jacket. I took the opposite ones from each sleeve and wove them to meet somewhere in the middle, staggering the joins on subsequent rows. I kept the weaving even by filling in with supplementary weft threads.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GzCkyNR4vsw/U-p4TEs1CeI/AAAAAAAAAqg/a6s73c9tqa4/s1600/top-of-shoulder-woven-and-hemstitched.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GzCkyNR4vsw/U-p4TEs1CeI/AAAAAAAAAqg/a6s73c9tqa4/s1600/top-of-shoulder-woven-and-hemstitched.jpg" height="149" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I first set in the sleeves I wove the top threads straight up the shoulders to the neck edge. They anchored the sleeves and held the warps in order really well. I thought this is where these threads would stay. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But I remembered that weaving at an angle too much different from 90 degrees doesn't work. The threads simply revert to a right angle the minute they are released from the weaving form. (I discovered this in a failed project a couple of years ago: woven as a hat, it surprised me by becoming a loose loopy scarf the minute I took out the pins!) In this case it would have meant that the top of the shoulder would pull downwards, distorting the neck edge.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6RdL9GBBM40/VDdJeds4U7I/AAAAAAAAAuc/P2wsxuQuhK4/s1600/top-of-back-shoulder-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6RdL9GBBM40/VDdJeds4U7I/AAAAAAAAAuc/P2wsxuQuhK4/s1600/top-of-back-shoulder-detail.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So as I reached this section I unpicked each thread and worked it in across the top of the weaving. I'll do this in the front as well. The final gap from here to the neck edge will be filled in when the fronts are at the same stage. </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-82259353313956245512014-10-04T11:42:00.000-07:002014-10-04T11:42:31.809-07:00Finished going in circles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nZFfU-C1O8c/VDA_CMZyQqI/AAAAAAAAAuM/tjNNArWwmek/s1600/midriff-finished-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nZFfU-C1O8c/VDA_CMZyQqI/AAAAAAAAAuM/tjNNArWwmek/s1600/midriff-finished-front.jpg" height="320" width="292" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've finished weaving around the whole midriff.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> All the warps that extended from the bottom of the sleeves are now covered. All the rest of the weaving will be back and forth on the front or back instead of round and round.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BHPaiXnFQGk/VDA8hJ9x_YI/AAAAAAAAAt8/rSQW-O9Q2tk/s1600/sleeve-threads-yet-to-be-woven-in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BHPaiXnFQGk/VDA8hJ9x_YI/AAAAAAAAAt8/rSQW-O9Q2tk/s1600/sleeve-threads-yet-to-be-woven-in.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've released the sleeves from where I had stuffed them into the cavity of the weaving form. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next thing to do will be to take the rest of the warps that extend from the sleeves and incorporate them into the weaving. I have mapped where each of these belongs and where I need to add extra threads between them to fill in the rest of the body of the jacket.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-63488525169731254052014-09-16T11:56:00.000-07:002014-09-16T11:56:35.934-07:00Over pocket section finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ9wM3Yw7Z8/VBiGmlh4heI/AAAAAAAAAtI/DT_r5bAxX2s/s1600/hem-problems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQ9wM3Yw7Z8/VBiGmlh4heI/AAAAAAAAAtI/DT_r5bAxX2s/s1600/hem-problems.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I worked my way down towards the hem I discovered a problem. Some of the holding threads had slipped, especially on the over pocket section where I used the same cardboard slits for the second layer of warp. A number of warps had pulled up and were too short by up to 3/4 centimeter. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My solution was to skip these warps and weave all the other threads, marking the problem warps as I went. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xDO30UOkyLI/VBiGmmec1AI/AAAAAAAAAtA/a8UILyAqHII/s1600/hem-problems-fixed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xDO30UOkyLI/VBiGmmec1AI/AAAAAAAAAtA/a8UILyAqHII/s1600/hem-problems-fixed.jpg" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After I finished the final row, I went back and darned in additional lengths of warp where I had skipped over. Once the cloth is off the form, I'll decide if I need to remove some of the extra bulk of the original warp threads, or, if the mend isn't visible, just leave it.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvGT3vjjdfE/VBiGmlNUfdI/AAAAAAAAAtE/hyiHhMdNBqs/s1600/last-section-of-over-pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kvGT3vjjdfE/VBiGmlNUfdI/AAAAAAAAAtE/hyiHhMdNBqs/s1600/last-section-of-over-pocket.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once the mending job was done, I could move on to the last section of the over pockets at the front. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ex9Mx4v3Rh4/VBiGnBkijpI/AAAAAAAAAtM/0S-WyDncqNs/s1600/over-pocket-section-finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ex9Mx4v3Rh4/VBiGnBkijpI/AAAAAAAAAtM/0S-WyDncqNs/s1600/over-pocket-section-finished.jpg" height="400" width="375" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now that I am finished to the level of the top of the pockets, I can remove the temporary hem stitching from the top of the weaving and begin to weave around the midriff of the jacket towards the underarm.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-7880027351221411582014-09-06T23:16:00.000-07:002014-09-06T23:16:45.067-07:00Weaving the over-pocket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VaCgBmEEkzI/VAUAFR-HqFI/AAAAAAAAAsA/QV-6pTrH1X4/s1600/warping-over-pockets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VaCgBmEEkzI/VAUAFR-HqFI/AAAAAAAAAsA/QV-6pTrH1X4/s1600/warping-over-pockets.jpg" height="320" width="271" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the under-pockets woven, I placed the separate pocket patterns over the top and stuck in pins along the pocket openings and the the neck edge. Then I laid the final warp threads. You can see both pocket patterns laid in place: one with the warp already applied over top of it.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uYcJkGX_Ea4/VAv3HL6enWI/AAAAAAAAAss/2ubnl7UdQVo/s1600/weaving-the-over-pocket-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uYcJkGX_Ea4/VAv3HL6enWI/AAAAAAAAAss/2ubnl7UdQVo/s1600/weaving-the-over-pocket-front.jpg" height="320" width="279" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">weaving the over-pocket section on the front</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I placed the paper strip level with the bottom of the pocket opening and began to weave down from there towards the hem.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fpfTqycKZpk/VAv3G_pGGiI/AAAAAAAAAso/vUNEjw4OmyE/s1600/weaving-the-over-pocket-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fpfTqycKZpk/VAv3G_pGGiI/AAAAAAAAAso/vUNEjw4OmyE/s1600/weaving-the-over-pocket-back.jpg" height="252" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">weaving the over-pocket section on the back</span></td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-37999087537856648402014-09-01T16:23:00.001-07:002014-09-01T16:23:16.885-07:00Under-pocket finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OrDzsbwxGwc/VAT6nNGhwcI/AAAAAAAAAro/4xDNeYQhL2o/s1600/temp-weaving-line-for-underpocket-section.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OrDzsbwxGwc/VAT6nNGhwcI/AAAAAAAAAro/4xDNeYQhL2o/s1600/temp-weaving-line-for-underpocket-section.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once both under-pockets were woven up to the pocket opening, I placed a paper strip at this level </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">around the whole jacket body. I used this as a marker along which to position</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> a temporary woven band to stabilize the warps. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HtmPiG_HjxY/VAT6mUvAB5I/AAAAAAAAArc/Hiptv8aSiEc/s1600/beginning-to-weave-underpocket-section.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HtmPiG_HjxY/VAT6mUvAB5I/AAAAAAAAArc/Hiptv8aSiEc/s1600/beginning-to-weave-underpocket-section.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I placed the paper strip on top of this band to give me an accurate edge from which to measure. From here I wove the rest of the under-pockets and the part that extends from them around the whole jacket. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pREMe8MEdJ8/VAT6mmTHu3I/AAAAAAAAArg/eaf3BHcUASE/s1600/finished-under-pocket-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pREMe8MEdJ8/VAT6mmTHu3I/AAAAAAAAArg/eaf3BHcUASE/s1600/finished-under-pocket-front.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Under-pocket section on the jacket front</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stopped weaving at the pins at the top of the pocket and hemstitched the top edge around the whole jacket to hold it in place until the over-pocket is finished. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ScTwuy6NwOg/VAT6mXQDXJI/AAAAAAAAAr0/5yg-sXiisK8/s1600/finished-under-pocket-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ScTwuy6NwOg/VAT6mXQDXJI/AAAAAAAAAr0/5yg-sXiisK8/s1600/finished-under-pocket-back.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Under-pocket section on the jacket back</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KRDYWJXO4M4/U_EaHgpSYKI/AAAAAAAAAq8/AZUmX1cR3KQ/s1600/sleeves-attached-and-jacket-warped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KRDYWJXO4M4/U_EaHgpSYKI/AAAAAAAAAq8/AZUmX1cR3KQ/s1600/sleeves-attached-and-jacket-warped.jpg" height="320" width="242" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At last the body warp is ready. T</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">he sleeves are attached and are tucked out of the way inside the weaving form.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JlMhpV3jvdk/U_EaHpybSyI/AAAAAAAAArA/DfxpWr857gs/s1600/under-pocket-started.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JlMhpV3jvdk/U_EaHpybSyI/AAAAAAAAArA/DfxpWr857gs/s1600/under-pocket-started.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've begun to weave the under-pockets. The left one has its first section done up to the pocket opening. The right one is just begun. </span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-66857573944767906492014-08-12T14:24:00.003-07:002014-08-12T14:24:30.078-07:00Setting in the sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Qe_ldFEcqo/U-p4SLAkUpI/AAAAAAAAAqM/F_p-LZ_HMk0/s1600/taking-the-sleeves-off-the-weaving-form.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Qe_ldFEcqo/U-p4SLAkUpI/AAAAAAAAAqM/F_p-LZ_HMk0/s1600/taking-the-sleeves-off-the-weaving-form.jpg" height="320" width="242" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To prepare the sleeves to be taken off their forms I removed the pins a section at a time and stabilized the edge by hemstitching it to a strip of bias fabric. Then I unpicked the holding stitches along the bottom of the sleeve, pulled out all the pins holding the shaping wedges, and slid the sleeve off its form.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M60oeaiOHBw/U-p4SEwKOzI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/L7j4vEL9D1A/s1600/sleeve-shaping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M60oeaiOHBw/U-p4SEwKOzI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/L7j4vEL9D1A/s1600/sleeve-shaping.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was exciting to handle the fabric. Here is the bottom of the sleeve showing the tapered shape. At the moment it feels coarse and looks like a very open weave, so I need to keep reminding myself that it will soften and draw up when it is fulled. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NVIY9TbGf0M/U-p4TWUJG2I/AAAAAAAAAqk/uSmJcEsfSC8/s1600/underarm-section.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NVIY9TbGf0M/U-p4TWUJG2I/AAAAAAAAAqk/uSmJcEsfSC8/s1600/underarm-section.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I lined up the marked points on the sleeve with the correct parts of the armhole. The picture shows the buttons and pins I use to anchor the woven edge of the sleeve in place on the jacket body. Pins along the armhole edge hold the pairs of warps in their positions. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qvZeZYLXwTQ/U-p4TQNIZVI/AAAAAAAAAqc/o_TTasF92Qo/s1600/sleeve-%26-side-warp-threads-in-place.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qvZeZYLXwTQ/U-p4TQNIZVI/AAAAAAAAAqc/o_TTasF92Qo/s1600/sleeve-%26-side-warp-threads-in-place.jpg" height="244" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I fastened the other ends in place along the hem, gradually filling in the missing side section of the of the jacket warp.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GzCkyNR4vsw/U-p4TEs1CeI/AAAAAAAAAqY/kmSWTdSI7Kc/s1600/top-of-shoulder-woven-and-hemstitched.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GzCkyNR4vsw/U-p4TEs1CeI/AAAAAAAAAqY/kmSWTdSI7Kc/s1600/top-of-shoulder-woven-and-hemstitched.jpg" height="149" width="320" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the shoulder, I wove some of the warp threads which extend from the top of the sleeve in a strip on either side of the top of the shoulder. I hemstitched the edges to hold this small section of weaving in place while I do the main weaving from the hem upwards.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-13014078070788414242014-07-22T01:20:00.001-07:002014-07-22T01:20:45.502-07:00First sleeve finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ebrMbR7FPHU/U84cuJe5O0I/AAAAAAAAAps/G29N2vio2w4/s1600/a-better-weft-measuring-device.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ebrMbR7FPHU/U84cuJe5O0I/AAAAAAAAAps/G29N2vio2w4/s1600/a-better-weft-measuring-device.jpg" height="313" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I found a better way to align the weft rows. I pinned a strip of paper below the working area and used my transparent ruler regularly. I only had to move the paper when I exceeded the length of my ruler (15 cm).</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzV3-lFKR2w/U84cuBP8OHI/AAAAAAAAAqA/kJ2w81QyFrs/s1600/markings-on-top-of-sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzV3-lFKR2w/U84cuBP8OHI/AAAAAAAAAqA/kJ2w81QyFrs/s1600/markings-on-top-of-sleeve.jpg" height="244" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When the weaving was finished it was time to mark the vital features of the armhole edge. There are matching points: the centre of the shoulder and underarm and two predetermined side points. There are four distinct groups of warp threads: a set under the arm that will become warps down the side of the body, ones that go across the top of the shoulder, a few interspersed among those at the top of the shoulder that end at the shoulder (creating "gathering") and all the others which will be weft threads in the front or back of the jacket body. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPmHSKM8UXs/U84cuTAluwI/AAAAAAAAAp4/AT2vJbg2fls/s1600/right-sleeve-finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZPmHSKM8UXs/U84cuTAluwI/AAAAAAAAAp4/AT2vJbg2fls/s1600/right-sleeve-finished.jpg" height="640" width="379" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I have all the pairs of warps tied around their pins with the groups tied loosely. I'll leave them like that while I </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">repeat the whole process on the left sleeve.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-52056150407234205072014-07-18T14:00:00.001-07:002014-07-18T14:01:35.677-07:00Starting to weave at last!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKtlVutmcpE/U8mIrduXiVI/AAAAAAAAApA/KZjNWduCP7Q/s1600/starting-to-weave-at-the-cuff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKtlVutmcpE/U8mIrduXiVI/AAAAAAAAApA/KZjNWduCP7Q/s1600/starting-to-weave-at-the-cuff.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The first step was to tension the sleeve warps. I untied the pairs, tied them more firmly around the pins at the armhole and anchored them in groups of four pairs. Then I</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> began weaving at the cuff. After numerous mistakes in the first two rows of weaving I discovered that I needed to be able to see the threads better, so I slipped a sheet of black paper behind the warps. After that I made great headway (a couple of inches per hour!) with hardly any unpicking at all. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i5in3brUG9U/U8mIrdEKj3I/AAAAAAAAApQ/9uzY5St2Yd4/s1600/measuring-the-sett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i5in3brUG9U/U8mIrdEKj3I/AAAAAAAAApQ/9uzY5St2Yd4/s1600/measuring-the-sett.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In order to try to keep the weaving even, I regularly measured to keep the frequency at four threads per centimeter.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W9TDj9dwXiU/U8mIsKzcOWI/AAAAAAAAApY/LGssH2beR4c/s1600/weft-control-problem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W9TDj9dwXiU/U8mIsKzcOWI/AAAAAAAAApY/LGssH2beR4c/s1600/weft-control-problem.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But even though I was doing that, as I wove around and around and up the sleeve, the weft subtly formed waves of higher and lower points. I felt it was essential that the weave be as perfect as possible to avoid distortions in the final garment. So I went back a bit and gradually straightened the lines of weft. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v4k_9mU9Jk4/U8mIsnCTb0I/AAAAAAAAApg/w4NutZpRSt8/s1600/weft-control-solution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v4k_9mU9Jk4/U8mIsnCTb0I/AAAAAAAAApg/w4NutZpRSt8/s1600/weft-control-solution.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I realized I can use the two rows of contrasting yarn I already had in place as measured markers to help keep the weft straight.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NfxnUHl7Epw/U8mIrDE-PmI/AAAAAAAAApc/r29bh9GZOpA/s1600/meet-the-underarm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NfxnUHl7Epw/U8mIrDE-PmI/AAAAAAAAApc/r29bh9GZOpA/s1600/meet-the-underarm.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I finally met the armhole section where I stopped going around the sleeve and began to go back and forth across the top of the sleeve. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-41632444749424265562014-07-13T12:44:00.001-07:002014-07-13T12:44:37.455-07:00The main weaving form<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJeSTD1Bq2o/U8LgCjqB7lI/AAAAAAAAAog/A4ItBb7XHLI/s1600/building-the-body-weaving-form-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJeSTD1Bq2o/U8LgCjqB7lI/AAAAAAAAAog/A4ItBb7XHLI/s1600/building-the-body-weaving-form-1.jpg" height="219" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front and back joined at shoulder</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Building the weaving form for the body of the jacket was a bit tricky because I didn't do it all in the right order. But I got there with a bit of figuring out.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_Mjb7SsCzg/U8LgCG9m2WI/AAAAAAAAAos/p6rpBVXvsR8/s1600/building-body-weaving-form-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h_Mjb7SsCzg/U8LgCG9m2WI/AAAAAAAAAos/p6rpBVXvsR8/s1600/building-body-weaving-form-2.jpg" height="229" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Front</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The warp is mostly applied. There are two sections left to warp: the sides where the sleeve warps will be inserted; and the top of the front panels which will be warped after the "under pocket" is woven.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-POpawkrZCAs/U8LgCKtIQmI/AAAAAAAAAow/7qFJ__dNero/s1600/body-weaving-form-warped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-POpawkrZCAs/U8LgCKtIQmI/AAAAAAAAAow/7qFJ__dNero/s1600/body-weaving-form-warped.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shoulder section warped</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eS2zhnbvAEk/U8LgCf-iBTI/AAAAAAAAAok/PU66fYZ1t24/s1600/body-weaving-form-warped2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eS2zhnbvAEk/U8LgCf-iBTI/AAAAAAAAAok/PU66fYZ1t24/s1600/body-weaving-form-warped2.jpg" height="320" width="201" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back section warped</span></td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-24440756881128536232014-07-04T02:44:00.001-07:002014-07-04T02:44:08.279-07:00Warping the sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XBBSiU86KGU/U7Z1-sVLX_I/AAAAAAAAAn4/14NznGqWJ7Y/s1600/top-of-sleeve-with-warp-threads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XBBSiU86KGU/U7Z1-sVLX_I/AAAAAAAAAn4/14NznGqWJ7Y/s1600/top-of-sleeve-with-warp-threads.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As I apply</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> the warps I measure the amount each thread needs to extend according to where in the weaving it will be needed. I've knotted them in groups out of the way at the top of the sleeve. I'll make a final tension adjustment of all the ends before beginning to weave. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lriCaeaLbd0/U7Z183iRfrI/AAAAAAAAAn8/UKu3hHgpukg/s1600/hem-of-sleeve-with-warp-threads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lriCaeaLbd0/U7Z183iRfrI/AAAAAAAAAn8/UKu3hHgpukg/s1600/hem-of-sleeve-with-warp-threads.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The hem of the sleeve works well with the slits/holding thread method so I'll definitely use this same method for the hem of the body of the jacket.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mfAnYfuMOck/U7Z19SFk3HI/AAAAAAAAAn0/NljEguQwyLM/s1600/keeping-the-sleeve-threads-in-order.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mfAnYfuMOck/U7Z19SFk3HI/AAAAAAAAAn0/NljEguQwyLM/s1600/keeping-the-sleeve-threads-in-order.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Crossed threads were a problem while weaving the previous jacket. I often had to correct the order of the threads while weaving by twisting around each other back to the right order. The tweedy surface hid a multitude of errors! This time I have hit upon a simple solution to hold things in the right order. I weave in two strands of a contrasting yarn as I lay the warps. This is the same principle as having a cross when winding a warp. (Why did it take so long for me to think of that?!) </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94ND0Q0qo1c/U7Z18mFLS4I/AAAAAAAAAnw/VmusuqRC5Mk/s1600/both-sleeves-warped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-94ND0Q0qo1c/U7Z18mFLS4I/AAAAAAAAAnw/VmusuqRC5Mk/s1600/both-sleeves-warped.jpg" height="182" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now the sleeves are both warped and the next job is building the weaving form for the body of the jacket.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-1595453427537740832014-06-27T10:49:00.000-07:002014-06-27T10:49:09.042-07:00Building the weaving form<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJs-Q9zcyi0/U6s-q_omlSI/AAAAAAAAAm8/0drF_saoiRE/s1600/pattern-printed-out.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJs-Q9zcyi0/U6s-q_omlSI/AAAAAAAAAm8/0drF_saoiRE/s1600/pattern-printed-out.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was exciting to see the full sized patterns roll out of the large format printer at Staples. I could hardly wait to unroll them at home. The first thing I did was consult my calculations to confirm the dimensions. The pieces look REALLY BIG but the figures work out right.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iMUJjIVuIuc/U6s-q8oOZ-I/AAAAAAAAAnM/KpdsObRuy7Q/s1600/pattern-colour-coded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iMUJjIVuIuc/U6s-q8oOZ-I/AAAAAAAAAnM/KpdsObRuy7Q/s1600/pattern-colour-coded.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sleeves are the first step, so I built those forms first. I carefully colour coded all the special warps and wefts. These colours will be translated into coloured threads attached to particular warps. Knowing which thread is which will make it possible to insert the extensions of the sleeve warps threads into the correct places in the body of the jacket. Threads from the underarm turn and go down the side of the jacket as warp threads. Warp threads extending from the top of the sleeves will become weft across the shoulders. Threads coming from the front and back of the sleeves will become weft threads across the front and back of the jacket. These will be supplemented with extra threads to get the right number of weft threads per inch as I weave.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rTL1wNqN22c/U6s-q43h3YI/AAAAAAAAAnE/Cbt7TRje28c/s1600/warp-test-for-hems.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rTL1wNqN22c/U6s-q43h3YI/AAAAAAAAAnE/Cbt7TRje28c/s1600/warp-test-for-hems.jpg" height="320" width="305" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just before I committed myself to making a lot of slits in the cardboard around the cuff to hold the warp threads, I did a little test to check that this method will really work. It is a combination of cardboard slits and holding stitches. A second strong thin yarn loops around the back and catches the warp thread into position before going back through the same slit. The warp threads are held at exactly the right place without having to be looped around the cardboard. Accurate, simple and quick. After the whole hem is warped, I'll tape the slits closed for extra insurance. The advantage over pin weaving is that I don't need a hefty stack of cardboard to hold the pins.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the top of the sleeve forms I have opted for that hefty stack of cardboard for the pins. That way I can tie the extensions of the warp threads around the pins temporarily. I'll be able to adjust tension as I weave. I'll be able to untie them again when the sleeve in completely woven and insert the threads into the right part of the body of the jacket.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8FfUJYecLMM/U62t7GJExNI/AAAAAAAAAnY/snSm4mbbiqY/s1600/one-sleeve-form-completed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8FfUJYecLMM/U62t7GJExNI/AAAAAAAAAnY/snSm4mbbiqY/s1600/one-sleeve-form-completed.jpg" height="190" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here is the first sleeve form completed and the next one ready to put together.</span><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-36033267508894233062014-06-11T05:13:00.000-07:002014-06-11T05:15:26.455-07:00First step in making the weaving form<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DHQHg0qpzdE/U5cqhJbzMLI/AAAAAAAAAmc/NGbQpdDJALc/s1600/jacket+pattern+piece+front+with+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DHQHg0qpzdE/U5cqhJbzMLI/AAAAAAAAAmc/NGbQpdDJALc/s1600/jacket+pattern+piece+front+with+drawing.jpg" height="200" width="103" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To make the toile I created a paper pattern from a favourite jacket (see <a href="http://ruthsjacketproject.blogspot.com.tr/2014/05/jacket-toile-finished.html">previous post</a>). After sewing it, I drew my adjustments onto the pattern. Now I'm starting to make the weaving form. I photographed the paper pattern and imported it into Adobe Illustrator at actual size. </span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dq5b3QRNPbc/U5crJ575u1I/AAAAAAAAAmo/GAgGhC4RM8w/s1600/jacket+pattern+piece+front+drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dq5b3QRNPbc/U5crJ575u1I/AAAAAAAAAmo/GAgGhC4RM8w/s1600/jacket+pattern+piece+front+drawing.jpg" height="200" width="99" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I traced it as a clean new digital drawing to form the basis for the next phase. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-54oP5s6h5D0/U5cqIKxFnPI/AAAAAAAAAmU/w0PbBGf6UJg/s1600/jacket+pattern+front+chart+demo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-54oP5s6h5D0/U5cqIKxFnPI/AAAAAAAAAmU/w0PbBGf6UJg/s1600/jacket+pattern+front+chart+demo.jpg" height="200" width="144" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I enlarged the drawing to make it 25% longer and 20% wider than the finished size (to allow for the shrinkage and take-up) and began to create the warping chart on it. (At critical points around the sleeve and shoulder this chart will also need weft information which I am still calculating.)</span><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-28382554079190456802014-05-17T13:11:00.000-07:002014-05-17T13:11:39.360-07:00Jacket Toile Finished<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I took my pattern from a a favourite store-bought jacket. The fabric is pieced-together denim from old blue jeans and the lining is cotton from a men's XL cotton shirt. I like the simplicity of the cut. Length and shaping of body and sleeves, the fit of the neck and shoulder line, and the placement of the pockets were good. I need to change minor aspects of the top of the sleeve and the collar when I make my final pattern.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My next step is to adjust the paper pattern and scale it up for the weaving form. It'll need to be 25% longer and 20% wider than the final garment to allow for stretch, take-up and shrinkage.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XsQ5gFGpo-8/U3fBgILR3FI/AAAAAAAAAl4/pZfSju4TQtE/s1600/toile-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XsQ5gFGpo-8/U3fBgILR3FI/AAAAAAAAAl4/pZfSju4TQtE/s1600/toile-front.jpg" height="320" width="184" /></a></div>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3AzHBcIjHD4/U3fBgBXzmcI/AAAAAAAAAmE/0mlRkuyOB_c/s1600/toile-back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3AzHBcIjHD4/U3fBgBXzmcI/AAAAAAAAAmE/0mlRkuyOB_c/s1600/toile-back.jpg" height="320" width="192" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-41166114292416118922014-04-23T13:56:00.000-07:002014-04-23T13:56:36.678-07:00Spinning almost complete - more samples<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l-UD-0Lb4U4/U1gloC70DHI/AAAAAAAAAlM/fDzKqDcMqXY/s1600/samples-to-test-sett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l-UD-0Lb4U4/U1gloC70DHI/AAAAAAAAAlM/fDzKqDcMqXY/s1600/samples-to-test-sett.jpg" height="184" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have enough reasonably consistent yarn, so the next step is to finalize the final sett. Assuming a shrinkage after fulling of about 20% and working towards a final 10 cm square, I warped a 12.5 cm square in two different setts: 12 per inch and 10 per inch. After fulling them (by putting them through the washing machine with a load of towels) the weave structure of the 12 sett (sample on left) ended up looking a bit "crowded" whereas the 10 sett looked just right. Shrinkage lengthwise was 25% and across the width was 20%.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MguSTIK4pZM/U1goMxsDyJI/AAAAAAAAAlY/Ow16Aed3aG8/s1600/spinning-the-brown-wool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MguSTIK4pZM/U1goMxsDyJI/AAAAAAAAAlY/Ow16Aed3aG8/s1600/spinning-the-brown-wool.jpg" height="281" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm still spindle spinning the brown wool which will be used for the tapestry sections. On the spindle is singles. The skeins are some of the finished two-ply.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next step will be to make up a sewn toile of the jacket to make sure features and fit are what I want. From that I can scale up the pattern for the weaving form.</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-28583784786395413532013-11-10T13:32:00.003-08:002013-11-10T13:32:42.169-08:00Spinning log book<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've been keeping track of spinning, plying and yarn management time. Two big batts of carded wool, about 60 grams, make one bobbin of singles and takes me about 6 hours to spin. When I have three bobbins spun, I ply them together making yarn which is </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">13 wraps per inch</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. One skein of three-ply is about 225 metres of yarn.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-778587917305489074.post-42684376008926708012013-09-29T11:20:00.001-07:002013-10-03T00:53:06.131-07:00Spinning has begun<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here it all is! I got all the clean, carded ryeland fleece out from under the stairs in its pillowcases. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The spinning wheel is </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">oiled and ready and m</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">oved into the living room.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> This week I have begun to spin the yarn needed for the new jacket: three ply of the light grey on the spinning wheel; and two ply of the brown on the drop spindle. I'll try to keep track of the hours and skeins. I have no idea how long it will take me to spin a whole fleece!</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0