Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Over pocket section finished

As I worked my way down towards the hem I discovered a problem. Some of the holding threads had slipped, especially on the over pocket section where I used the same cardboard slits for the second layer of warp. A number of warps had pulled up and were too short by up to 3/4 centimeter. My solution was to skip these warps and weave all the other threads, marking the problem warps as I went. 

After I finished the final row, I went back and darned in additional lengths of warp where I had skipped over. Once the cloth is off the form, I'll decide if I need to remove some of the extra bulk of the original warp threads, or, if the mend isn't visible, just leave it.
Once the mending job was done, I could move on to the last section of the over pockets at the front. 
Now that I am finished to the level of the top of the pockets, I can remove the temporary hem stitching from the top of the weaving and begin to weave around the midriff of the jacket towards the underarm.

Saturday, 6 September 2014

Weaving the over-pocket

With the under-pockets woven, I placed the separate pocket patterns over the top and stuck in pins along the pocket openings and the the neck edge. Then I laid the final warp threads. You can see both pocket patterns laid in place: one with the warp already applied over top of it.

weaving the over-pocket section on the front

Then I placed the paper strip level with the bottom of the pocket opening and began to weave down from there towards the hem.
weaving the over-pocket section on the back

Monday, 1 September 2014

Under-pocket finished

Once both under-pockets were woven up to the pocket opening, I placed a paper strip at this level around the whole jacket body. I used this as a marker along which to position a temporary woven band to stabilize the warps. 
Then I placed the paper strip on top of this band to give me an accurate edge from which to measure. From here I wove the rest of the under-pockets and the part that extends from them around the whole jacket. 

Under-pocket section on the jacket front

I stopped weaving at the pins at the top of the pocket and hemstitched the top edge around the whole jacket to hold it in place until the over-pocket is finished. 

Under-pocket section on the jacket back