Tuesday 29 January 2013

Finished weaving the doll's jacket

This was a fun test! I purposely used delightful colours to make the process enjoyable. To explore the structure, I represented different sections with different colours, warping the body of the jacket in teal, the sleeves in dark blue and the shaping wedges in purple. Then I did all the weaving with a bright pink. That way, the finished jacket shows really clearly where all the threads travel. The sleeve warps go all over the place on the jacket body, some of them forming warp threads down the sides, some of them making stripes across the yoke, and the rest becoming the weft threads on the shoulders. You can clearly see the shaping wedges at the sides. 
The tops of the sleeves have two rows of blue grey. When I started I thought these rows would be temporary and that I would replace them with weft threads travelling around from the yoke. But in the actual weaving, this didn't work the way I thought so I just left the "temporary" threads in place. I'm not exactly sure how this will work in the full sized jacket, but I think (hope) it will become clear as I chart the warp and weft on the final pattern pieces.
after the sleeves have been added to the warp
and the weaving of the body has begun
I learned that all the warp threads must be very carefully planned before starting to warp. This I will attempt to do by colour-coding the grid on the pattern pieces. The places where I skimped on planning and left it to figure out on the fly while warping were the places where I had problems weaving. The place where the sleeves join the body and any shaping wedges will need to be very carefully thought out and marked in the final project. 
I intend to have a collar on the final full-sized jacket, but I haven't solved the warping problems for that yet, so this doll's jacket is collarless so far. My knitting friend Caroline will help me figure out how to make a knitted one. Maybe I will pick up stitches and knit it right on the jacket, or knit it separately and stitch it on.

Saturday 12 January 2013

Testing the weaving form concept

I intend to use a sewing pattern as the basis of the weaving form, so I decided to test this method at a smaller scale. I found a sewing pattern for a doll's jacket and scaled it to fit the doll I have and sewed a sample to see how it fits. 
Then I planned the adjustments I want in the woven jacket and marked them on the pattern (see the green marks on the pattern). 
Finally I traced the pieces on graph paper and used them to create the cardboard form. The graph paper aided me in planning the pin positions. I added 10% to the length to make up for stretch and take-up.

Another sample of thick and thin weaving

Embroidery stitches over an even weave base:
Top - cross stitch
Bottom - cross stitch and bargello stitch.

This created a firm, stable, thicker section and was quite quick to do, but the appearance of the stitched surface doesn't look good with the even weave. I don't think I would use this for the jacket.