With a little bit of the Ryeland wool spun to the thickness I want, I made a sample to test the sett, the colours and the way the two kinds of weave work together. The sample shows the even weave which will be used for the main fabric of the jacket; and tapestry weave to be used for the thicker sections like the front facings and the collar. It worked well to use three ply for the warp of the whole fabric, three ply for the weft of the main fabric and two ply for the weft of the tapestry sections (woven over two warp threads). There are two colours in the fleece. I'll use the lighter tawny wool for the main fabric since there is a lot more of it and the slightly softer, variable brown for the thicker sections.
After weaving the sample, I checked how it shrinks by throwing it in the washing machine with a load of clothes on the low temperature easy-care cycle. The highlighted area on the pin-weaving chart shows the amount of width and height that has been lost through shrinkage. The even weave shrank more than the tapestry section. I can see that I will only be able to hand-wash this garment very carefully!
