The plain weave section shrinks about 20% and the tapestry section hardly shrinks at all. I decided to try weaving and shrinking the plain weave section before adding the tapestry section. I designed two charts: one for step one at the larger size and one for step two after the first step has shrunk. The result was very pleasing and I am planning to do the whole jacket this way.
The samples I wove allowed me to test a number of things: the method for joining the tapestry section to the plain weave section; various methods for weaving the buttonholes; and how the finished fabric responds to fulling. The graph paper squares are what I used to chart the pin positions. The coloured sections show the amount of shrinkage after fulling.