Before I could draft the hem I needed to finalize what I would do about take up. So I made a sample to test these materials for the amount of take up I had to account for. In a previous less controlled test I had concluded that take up would be about 10%, so I started with that for this test. I decided how long I would like the test piece and drew that out. Then I added 10% to that and I warped the sample with extra rows of pins included. As needed during weaving the sample I could release the tension by removing a row of pins.
I concluded after weaving the sample that I would make the warp 10% longer than the desired final length of the project. About 1/3 of that would account for stretch. The other 2/3 would need to be let out in stages during weaving to release the increased tension that occurs because of take up. I decided that for the longer project, I would need more small stages to allow me to let out the tension even more gradually than I did for the test.
When charting the hem of the JACKET, I chose the final desired length, added the extra 10% and charted the increments where I will place stitches to hold the warp threads. I will be able to release the holding stitches one row at a time.
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