Monday, 27 October 2014

Finishing touches - harder parts well on the way

The cuffs and pocket edges look lovely and hold their shape well.

I spent a whole day making the tracing paper pattern for the collar to create a neat tapered shape that lies flat across the shoulders and has a smooth transition to the front edging bands. It has three sections: one to fill in the neck edge, a collar stand, and the collar itself. 

I cut it out precisely in fusible interfacing and adhered it to the backing fabric. 

I drew on as many warp lines as I could figure out while the pieces were flat, then I assembled it into its final 3-D shape and drew on the rest of the lines where they cross seams.
The edgings for the hem and front opening are straightforward, using the same method as for the cuffs and pockets. The front corners turn nicely where the softness of the material allows me to create an inside curve with a half inch radius. I tacked the edgings base to the garment.
I temporarily pinned on the collar base to check the fit. I'll take it off to attach most of the warp threads, then tack it onto the jacket. 

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